Parts of a Bicycle

How to Shift Gears

Want to know how to shift gears?
Check out the video below at Bicycle Tutor:

http://bicycletutor.com/gear-shifting/

Bicycle Maintenance Tips : How to Fix a Slipped Bicycle Chain

Ever have a chain fall off when riding?
Check out the video below to see how to put that chain back on:






















http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivgFCiTsjLE

How to Change a Flat

The first and most basic bike repair you need to know is how to fix a flat tire, because sooner or later, you will get a flat. It’s as certain as death and taxes, and usually occurs while you are out riding rather than happening conveniently at home. So if you do not know how to fix a flat yourself, you’ll either be in for a nice long walk, or will have to rely on the kindness of another to get your tire fixed and you back going again.

The following directions will show you how to fix a flat tire. Don’t let the ten steps fool you; this is a quite simple repair.

Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: 15 minutes

Here's How:

Remove the Wheel From Your Bicycle
Take the wheel that has the flat you’ll be repairing off your bike. Do this by loosening the nuts or quick release mechanism that holds the wheel until it slides out. You may need to loosen your brakes to get the wheel off. These often have a quick release mechanism too. If you are removing a rear wheel, it will also have to be lifted clear of the chain.

Remove the Tire from the Rim
Using the tire levers, remove the tire by wedging the tire tool between the tire and rim, and then prying upward to lift the tire away from the rim.

Keeping the first tool in place under the tire, repeat this step about four inches away with the second tool to pull more of the tire over and off the rim. Repeat this step as you work your way around the rim. The one edge of the tire you’ve been working on should start to come free of the rim quite easily. You can finish this step by simply sliding the lever underneath the tire the rest of the way around the rim.

Separate the Valve Stem from the Rim
Next, you'll need to remove the valve stem from the rim. This is the metal valve that pokes through the rim used to inflate the tube. Coming from the center of the wheel by the spokes, locate the valve stem and push it up and through the hole in the rim so that it no longer protrudes through the rim.

Take the Tube Out of the Tire
Remove the tire and tube the rest of the way. You can usually do this easily by hand, but if you have trouble getting the edge of the tire completely over and off the rim you can use the tire levers again. Once the tire is off, pull the old tube out of the tire. You can then either discard the old tube or attempt to patch it.

Put the New Tube in Your Tire
Take the new tube and with it still flat, work it into the tire, laying it where it goes when it is inflated on the rim. Take care that the tube is not crimped or twisted at any point, and that the valve stem points to the center. Some people find that the tube is easier to work with if you put just a little bit of air in it, enough to hold it in the tire.

Replace Tire on the Rim
Put the tire and new tube back on the rim by first lining up the valve stem with the hole that it will need to go through on the rim. This is the reverse of what you did in Step 4. You do this by working the first edge of the tire back onto the rim, easing the tube onto the rim at the same time. As you seat the first edge of the tire onto the rim, use your fingers to carefully guide the valve stem back into its hole. Finish putting the first edge of the tire completely on the rim.

Seat the Tire Snugly on Rim
Use your hands to work as much of the second edge of the tire onto the rim as you can. It will become more difficult as you go, and finally you will need to use the tire levers to put the last part of the tire onto the rim. Do this by wedging the tire tools against the rim below the edge of the tire that still needs to go on, and then working one lever and then another to bring the edge over the rim until the whole tire is seated snugly and comfortably once again inside the rim.

Inflate The Tube
Using the pump, inflate the tire to the pressure recommended on the sidewall.

Put Wheel Back On Bike
Put the wheel back on your bicycle, reattaching the nuts or quick release mechanism and resetting the brakes and replacing the chain as necessary. Check to make sure that the wheel is aligned properly, that it is held securely and that it spins cleanly.

Ride!

Tips:
If your tire is flat because of a puncture that came from hitting a road hazard, after you remove the old tube check the inside of the tire thoroughly to make sure whatever caused the flat -- glass, a piece of metal, etc. -- is not still lodged in the tire to play a nasty trick on you and pop a second tube.

When you reinsert the valve stem of the new tube into the rim, be sure that it comes straight out of the hole and not be angled in any direction. Any tilt in the valve stem tells you that the tube is not centered over the hole. You can correct this by sliding the tube and tire around the rim just a bit in the proper direction to correct the tilt.

Once the new tube and tire are back on the rim, do a quick check with your eyes and fingers around both sides of the rim to make sure that the complete edge of the tire is inside the rim, and that at no point is the inner tube pinched between the tire and rim or protruding over the rim.

When you first inflate the new tube, be sure the tire is filling consistently. Any uneven inflation that you notice, such as a bubble or highly inflated portion of the tire while another part remains flat, tells you that your tube is pinched or twisted inside the tire and needs to be reset. Correct this by letting the air out of the tube and repeating Step Two, which allows you to look for the spot that is pinched or twisted. Many times you can fix this without removing the tire completely again. Replace the tire as you did in Step 7 and try inflating the tire again.

What You Need:
-A wrench to get your wheel off if you don’t have a quick release mechanism
-Two tire lever tools. These are about the size and shape of toothbrush handles.
-A pump
-A replacement inner tube.

For a video on how to change a tire see:





















http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5K-DXt9djA

How to Choose Clipless Bike Pedals -- A Guide to Different Types of Clip-in Cycling Pedals

"Clipless pedals vary in type, size, weight and cost. Choosing the right pedal can be difficult so here's a guide to help with decision making."-Helen Smeaton

Check out this link for more information on the different pedals:
http://bicycle-gear.suite101.com/article.cfm/how_to_choose_clipless_bike_pedals

Enjoy!

What are all the different types of bicycles out there?

So many bikes, so many definitions...

Shimano states it best. Check out the links below to learn more about the different types of bikes.

Mountain Bikes (101):
http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/new_to_cycling/mtb_101.html

Road Bikes (101):
http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/new_to_cycling/road_101.html

Lifestyle Bikes (101):
http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/new_to_cycling/lifestyle_101.html

What Bike Gloves Are For- The Seven Ways Bike Gloves Help Your Riding, By David Fiedler, About.com

What’s the point of cycling gloves?
Somebody asked me that recently in that tone of voice that implied cycling gloves are one of those accessories that are more about image than substance. I mean, c’mon. Do you really need gloves for riding a bike?

Actually, many cyclists find that gloves are an important part of their gear and wouldn’t be found on the bike without them. Let’s take a look at the seven main functions that bike gloves perform.

1. Improved Grip and Control
You know that being out on a bike can make you pretty sweaty – especially if it is one of those warm and humid days. And that means your hands are wet, too. Like clothes with wicking technology, a good pair of gloves will help keep your hands dry, which means that you can maintain a better grip on the handlebars.

The gloves also serve to trap the sweat that would otherwise be likely to drip into your shifters. And over time, moisture – and especially perspiration because of its high mineral content – can cause those components to deteriorate.

2. Comfort and Protection for Your Skin
If you’ve ever spent a couple of hours or more on a bike, you probably realized that, somewhat surprisingly, cycling can be pretty hard on your hands. From the constant pressure on your palms, to the wear on your fingers from running your shifters through the range of gears, it doesn’t take long for calluses or blisters to develop. A pair of bike gloves can give your skin the extra layer of protection you need to be comfortable, even on the longest ride.

3. Shock Absorption
You’ll notice that many pairs of gloves on the market today have some type of cushioning, such as gel padding, etc., built into the palms. The reason is that gloves with this padding serve a very useful function in absorbing shock from the road that would otherwise be transferred to the rider.

Think about it this way. When you’re riding, whether on a road or mountain bike, and you hit some bumps in the road, the shock and impact from that carries straight up from the front fork through your arms and into your shoulders. That’s why you may be achy in that area or your neck and back after a longer ride. When wearing bike gloves, the cushions in the palms act as shock absorbers, helping to dampen some of the energy being transmitted up from the bike before it gets into your body. Not only will this help the ride feel smoother as you go, but it will also help reduce those aches you feel when you are done.

4. Warmth
Another reason many cyclists wear bike gloves is to keep their hands warm. (Bike gloves are still gloves, after all!) For cool weather riding, glove choices can range from regular bike gloves that just help break the wind, to glove liners that help add layers. For extremely cold weather riding are products like thick “lobster claw” gloves or Moose Mitts, which are thick, well-insulated mittens that attach to the handlebars of your bike and cover your regular biking gloves. This type of gear allows you to still grip the handlebars and work the brakes and gear shifters like normal.

5. Protection in Case of a Crash
What do most people do as they start to fall? They put their hands out to try and catch themselves, to break their impact as they hit the ground. If you’ve ever fallen like this, you know that you can really tear up your palms when they go skidding across pavement or rocks. A pair of bike gloves can give you the protection you need to save your hands and keep the gravel and grit out of your hands and on the street where it belongs. They may be completely shredded when you take stock of things after the wreck, but tearing up a pair of gloves is a whole lot better than wrecking your hands.

Granted, this is a secondary benefit of wearing bike gloves, but still a very important one. Think about it this way: if you knew you were going to wipe out, would you rather be wearing gloves or not have them on?

6. Wiping Your Nose
It mainly happens when you ride in colder temps. My buddy calls 'em "snot rockets." You know what it is: you're on your bike and your nose starts running. So what do you do? Most of us don't keep a hankie handy to pull out for a delicate toot. You wipe your nose on the back of your thumb, that's what you do. And glove makers have taken this into account.
If you notice, many pairs of bike gloves have a fleece lining on the back of the thumb. That's exactly what this is piece of material is for. One hand off the handle bar, one second, one wipe. Problem solved.

7. Style
On top of all these other features, wearing a pair of snazzy bike gloves can make you look and feel cool. It’s like being a kid and getting a new pair of sneakers: instantly you feel like you can run a lot faster. And there is nothing wrong with buying a pair of bike gloves for this reason alone. Image is everything, right?

So, if you've never ridden with a pair of bike gloves, give 'em a try. There are lots of things that can do to help your riding. And at the least, you'll find yourself (like the kid with the new shoes), riding twice as fast as before you had gloves. At the very least, you'll be so cool, it'll feel like you are!

How to Solve Saddle Sores By Fred Matheny

A saddle sore can ruin a ride. Even a tiny zit can begin to feel like you’re perched on a golf ball. Nearly as painful are crotch abrasions caused by shorts that bunch or have an irritating seam.
Even the pros, hardened by thousands of miles in the saddle, fall victim to what cycling author Arnie Baker, M.D., calls “crotchitis.” Fabled tough guys like Eddy Merckx and Sean Kelly had to abandon races when the pain became too great.

Most medical experts say that saddle sores are actually boils caused by skin bacteria that invade surface abrasions. Remedies have come a long way from the era when riders would put slabs of raw steak in their shorts to cushion the abraded area.

Of course, avoiding saddle sores is better than curing them (or ruining a good sirloin). Here’s how:

Improve your bike fit. If your seat is too high, your hips rock on each pedal stroke and strum your soft tissue across the nose of the saddle. The result is irritated skin and a greater chance of infection. Especially if you suffer from chronic saddle sores, have your position checked by an experienced coach or knowledgeable bike shop person.

Stand frequently. Doing so takes pressure off your crotch and restores circulation. Get in the habit of standing for 15-20 seconds every few minutes. Use natural opportunities such as short hills, rough pavement or accelerating from stop signs. Stand and stretch when you’re at the back of a paceline or group.

Move on the saddle. Sit mostly toward the rear where your sit bones get maximum support and take pressure off your crotch. But also move farther back on seated climbs, and more to the middle when bending low to make good time. Each shift relieves pressure points.

Choose a smooth chamois. Look for shorts with a one-piece liner or one that’s sewn with flat seams. It may take experimenting with shorts brands or chamois types to find the model that works best. Women often do better with shorts designed specifically for their anatomy and that have a liner with no center seam. See the RoadBikeRider.com article, "How to Choose Cycling Shorts."

Select a supportive seat. Saddle choice is crucial. Excessively wide saddles rub your inner thighs. Narrow saddles don’t provide enough support for your sit bones -- your weight is borne by soft tissue that can quickly become bruised and irritated. Thickly padded saddles can press upward between your sit bones, causing uncomfortable numbing pressure. The best choice for any individual rider can only be found through trial and error. Hopefully, your bike shop will have a saddle test-ride program or liberal trade-in policy. See the RoadBikeRider.com article, "How to Find a Safe Saddle."

Lube to reduce friction. To prevent the chamois from abrading skin, apply lubrication before each ride. Try a commercial product such as Chamois BUTT’r or Bag Balm, or simply a light coating of petroleum jelly. Apply a dab the size of a nickel to your crotch before putting on your shorts.

Keep clean. Always wear clean shorts for each ride. If you seem susceptible to saddle sores, you may find it helpful to wash your crotch with antibacterial soap and warm water before lubing up. Dry your skin well first.

Strip quick. After a ride, get out of your sweaty, germy shorts as soon as possible. The environment down there breeds bacteria and encourages them to enter abraded skin. Then shower or clean up with soap and water. Dry well and put on loose-fitting clothing that allows your skin to breathe. For underwear, try boxer shorts. The tight leg bands of briefs cut across the junction of your glutes and hamstrings, right where many saddle sores develop.
Sleep in the buff. It keeps your crotch dry and free of clothing contact for as long as you’re in bed.

If You Get a Saddle Sore

Medicate it. Besides keeping it clean, treat it with an over-the-counter acne gel containing 10% benzoyl peroxide. Perhaps even more effective is the topical prescription product called Emgel (erythromycin). If a sore is getting out of control, ask your doctor about a course of oral antibiotics.

Rest it. As you medicate a troublesome sore, take some time off the bike to help it heal. It’s far better to lose three days now than a week or more after infection sets in. If you continue to ride on an open sore it may eventually form a cyst that requires surgery.

If You Must Continue Riding

Sometimes you can’t take time off. For instance, you may be on a tour or at a cycling camp.

Change your shorts or saddle. Your problems are probably isolated in one small area -- a boil or abrasion. Changing your saddle and/or shorts can reduce pressure on the sore and lessen pain.

Use a heavier lube. If you’re getting irritated, apply extra lube or switch to a more viscous one. Many long-distance riders swear by Bag Balm, which was originally made for sore cow udders but is now available in most pharmacies.

Numb it. OTC pain reducers and anti-inflammatories, such as ibuprofen, can help. In extreme cases, pro team physicians will use a topical anesthetic on riders so they can finish a stage race. It’s not recommended for recreational riders because when you’re numb, you can ride yourself into greater damage.

Try Preparation H ointment. No, not for that reason. Prep H works on saddle sores because it shrinks swollen tissue and soothes pain. Apply it five minutes before slathering on your chamois cream and putting on your shorts. Also try a dab on sores after rides to dull discomfort.

Have a donut. In the foot-care section of drug stores, you'll find donut-shaped foam pads in several diameters. They're made for corns but can help you ride more comfortably with a saddle sore, too. Simply place it with the sore in the center of the cutout to relieve direct pressure. The adhesive backing will keep it in place.

How to Solve Painful 'Hot Foot' By Fred Matheny

In cycling, it’s known as “hot foot” -- a burning pain in the ball of the foot, perhaps radiating toward the toes. Severe cases feel like some sadistic demon is applying a blowtorch.

Hot foot occurs most often on long rides. It may develop sooner or more intensely on hilly courses because climbs cause greater pedaling pressure. The pain results when nerves are squeezed between the heads of each foot’s five long metatarsal bones. These heads are in the wide part of the foot (the “ball”) just behind the toes.

My worst case of hot foot occurred on a 3,400-mile, 24-day transcontinental ride. With an average distance of 140 miles per day, no rest days and more than 100,000 feet of vertical gain, my dogs were smoking by the third week.

My RBR partner, Ed Pavelka, remembers being in agony near the end of one 225-mile ride early in his long-distance career. It was his first experience with hot foot, and the problem plagued him that season until he changed to larger shoes. Feet always swell on long rides (more so in hot weather), causing pressure inside shoes that normally fit fine.

“Hot foot” is actually a misnomer. It’s not heat but rather pressure on nerves that causes the burning sensation. You’ll sometimes see riders squirting water on their pups in a vain attempt to put out the fire.

Besides tight shoes, another risk factor is small pedals, especially if you have large feet. Small pedal surfaces concentrate pressure on the ball of the foot instead of spreading it the way a larger pedal will. If your cycling shoes have flexible soles like most mountain bike shoes, they’ll be less able to diffuse pressure.

Before Ed figured out his shoe-size problem, he tried to solve the pain with cortisone injections. That’s an unnecessary extreme in most cases -- and it’s not fun to have a doctor stick a needle between your toes. Here are several better solutions.

Adjust shoe straps. It’s the top strap nearest your ankle that stops your feet from slopping around in your shoes. Tighten it as much as necessary, but keep the strap nearest your toes loose for maximum room.

Use thinner insoles and/or socks. This will give your feet more room to swell without restriction, especially helpful if your shoes are borderline snug.

Re-focus the pressure. Many riders solve hot foot by moving their cleats to the rear by as much as 8 mm. Long-distance enthusiast may go back as far as the cleat slots allow. They might even drill new rearward holes. After using this remedy, lower your saddle by the same amount if you moved your cleats backward 2-4 mm. If more than 4 mm, lower the saddle about half the amount. So, if your cleats go back 1 cm, put the saddle down 5 mm.

Add metatarsal buttons. These foam domes are placed on insoles (or are built into them) just behind the ball of the foot. They spread the metatarsal bones so the nerves running between them aren’t pinched by pressure or swelling. You can find these products in the foot-care section of drug stores.

Switch to larger pedals, for the reason mentioned above.

Buy new shoes. Look for a model with a wider-and-higher toe box, a stiffer sole and an anatomical footbed with a metatarsal button. One model that meets these specs is the Specialized BG, with versions for road and off-road.

Purchase custom orthotics. These plastic footbeds are supplied by podiatrists or sports medicine clinics. Among their biomechanical benefits are built-in metatarsal buttons. Be certain the practitioner understands you're a cyclist, because orthotics for runners are not what you need. Cycling is a forefoot activity, not a heel-strike activity.

How to Choose Cycling ShortsBy Fred Matheny and Ed Pavelka

You should choose road-cycling shorts based on the quality of materials and construction. But also crucial is how well they conform to your unique anatomy. Sometimes a relatively inexpensive pair may work better for you than a high-zoot model.

Shorts, like saddles, are tough to recommend because of differences in butts, crotches, seats and riding positions. Every rider has to try on shorts, buy the model/size that fits snugly but comfortably, then hope for the best on the bike. It's hit or miss, and some luck is involved. Just as with saddles, there is no universal answer.

That said, here are guidelines that'll point you toward better choices.

Price. Generally, the more expensive the shorts, the higher the quality. Avoid cheap shorts because the material and construction may be substandard. They may be sewn from only 4 or 6 pieces ("panels"), which won't give you the best anatomical fit. The padded liner ("chamois") may not be large enough, soft enough or sewn without irritating seams. Cheap shorts aren't as durable, either, so in the long run they really aren't a bargain. When touring and washing shorts by hand, wringing can break threads and blow out seams if the manufacturer cut corners on quality.

Panels. The more the better. Usually, 8-panel shorts conform to your body better than those made from fewer pieces. Better manufacturers use flat-seam stitching so additional panels won't result in abrasion or other discomforts.

Liner. Crotch liners are synthetic nowadays (not real chamois leather). That's a good thing because the material can't dry, crack and cause more irritation than it prevents. A large, smooth, absorbent, one-piece, moderately padded liner has the best chance of feeling comfortable. Liners that have seams, grooves, distinct sections and/or a waffle-like texture may work fine for you -- or maybe not. There's no way of knowing for sure before riding. Beware of thick padding, which can bunch and chafe. Also problematic are gel inserts. Because they're in plastic compartments, moisture transfer can be blocked, causing excessive dampness and skin irritation.

Leg length. This goes up and down like hem lengths in the fashion world. Long, so-called "Belgian" shorts will be in style for a while, putting the legs just above the knee. Then the pendulum swings the other way. Short shorts, like those marketed for spinning classes, are favored by riders who want to avoid tan lines that show when wearing casual shorts. But they shouldn't be so short that the nose of the saddle rubs on bare skin.

Waist length. Proper cycling shorts are cut high in back to keep skin covered in the bent-over riding position. Likewise, they are low in front so you can bend forward without restriction. The front shouldn't be so low, though, that it's below your hip bones with nothing to help hold it up.
Waist band. The elastic should be wide enough that it doesn't feel like a cord around your middle. Some manufacturers add a drawstring. Just elastic is fine. Just a drawstring is not. If that's the only thing keeping shorts in place, you'll feel restricted in certain positions or when breathing deeply.

Leg grippers. Nothing is more frustrating than shorts that ride up and let material bunch in the crotch. Check the leg grippers to be sure they're wide, made of "sticky" rubber-like material and securely sewn in. The legs should feel comfortably snug, not tight.

Stretch. Most shorts are made of a stretchy fabric generically called spandex. They're easy to pull on and don't feel like you're wearing a 19th century corset. On the other hand, you may come across shorts with fabric that purposely resists stretching. The idea is to provide help to your pedal stroke. The fabric "stores" kinetic energy on the rear part of the stroke and releases it when you push down. This concept is also used in competition suits for weight lifters. I'm not aware of any studies that prove a benefit for cyclists.

Bibs. Shorts with built-in shoulder straps can't sag. They keep the chamois snug against the crotch to limit movement and irritation. For men, this prevents the chance of things moving out of place when pedaling out of the saddle. However, the high front makes it difficult for guys to urinate. (Some prefer to roll up one leg instead of contorting to pull down the front.) Women usually prefer shorts without bibs so they don't have to remove their jersey to take what cycling commentator Phil Liggett calls a "natural break." Bib shorts are more expensive than standard shorts.

Size. It's best to try on shorts before buying them. Sizing varies among manufacturers. Fred is 5-foot-10 and just under 160 pounds, but wears size XL in some shorts while M is too big in others. Some U.S. manufacturers have noticed the "plumping of America" and cut their clothing bigger. It's risky to buy shorts by mailorder unless you're replacing a model and size you've worn before.

Overall fit. In general, snugger is better. You don't want any uncomfortable restriction, but you do want the shorts to stay exactly in place. Remember that properly designed cycling shorts will look a bit baggy in the butt when you're standing in front of the dressing room mirror. Then crouch forward into the riding position and watch them mold to your body.

How to Perfect Your Riding Position & Technique

Cycling is full of prodigious numbers—the distances ridden, the calories consumed, the tires trashed. Another statistic that can seem astounding is the number of pedal strokes made.

Let’s suppose it takes you six hours to ride a century and you pedal at the rate of 90 rpm throughout. As you cross the finish line, you will be making pedal stroke number 64,800.

Whoa, that’s a lot! But it barely registers on the scale of what happens during a full season. For example, during the year in which I had my biggest mileage total, I figure that I got there by pushing the pedals around approximately 13,340,000 times.

Can you say, repetitive use injury? You can see why cyclists are good candidates, especially if we aren’t pedaling from a nearly perfect position.

Your body and bike must fit together and work together in near-perfect harmony for you to be efficient, comfortable, and injury-free. The more you ride, the more essential this is. If even one thing is out of whack, it’s a good bet that it will cause a problem during thousands of pedal strokes.

Fortunately, it isn’t difficult to arrive at an excellent riding position. But it does take time and attention. You need to be careful with your initial bike set-up, then conscientiously stay aware of your body and the need for occasional refinements. As time goes by, your position will stabilize and you’ll be riding in a smooth groove.

The following guidelines come from my experience and the advice of various experts. One is Andy Pruitt, Ed.D., the director of Colorado’s Boulder Center for Sports Medicine. Andy has probably solved more position problems than anyone during his years of work with elite cyclists.

As you work on your riding position, always remember Pruitt Rule No. 1:

“Adjust your bike to fit your body. Don’t force your body to fit the bike.”

Frame: Measure your inseam from crotch to floor with bare feet 6 inches apart, then multiply by 0.68. The answer is a good approximation of your road frame size, measured along the seat tube from the center of the crank axle to the center of the top tube. As a double check, this should produce 4 to 5 inches of exposed seatpost when your saddle height is correct. When the crankarms are horizontal, the top tube should be right between your knees when you squeeze them together.

Arms: Keep your elbows bent and relaxed to absorb shock and prevent veering when you hit a bump or brush another rider. Hold arms in line with your body, not splayed to the side, to be more compact and aerodynamic.

Upper Body/Shoulders: Don’t be rigid, but do be fairly still. Imagine the energy wasted by rocking side to side with every pedal stroke on a 25-mile ride. Save it for pedaling. Also, beware of creeping forward on the saddle and hunching your shoulders. There’s a tendency to do this when pushing for more speed. Shift to a higher gear and stand periodically to prevent stiffness in your hips and back.

Head and Neck: Resist the temptation to put your head down when you’re going hard or getting tired. It takes just a second for something dangerous to pop out of nowhere. Occasionally tilt your head to one side and the other instead of holding it dead center. Change your hand location to reposition your upper body and give your neck a new angle.

Hands: Prevent finger numbness by moving your hands frequently. Grip the bar firmly enough to keep hands from bouncing off on unexpected bumps, but not so tightly that it tenses your arms. For the same safety reason, keep your thumbs wrapped around the bar instead of resting on top. Move to the drops for descents or high-speed riding, and the brake lever hoods for relaxed cruising. On long climbs, grip the top of the bar to sit upright and open your chest for easier breathing. When standing, hold the lever hoods lightly and sway the bike side to side in synch with your pedal strokes, directly driving each pedal with your body weight.

Handlebar: Bar width should equal shoulder width to open your chest for better breathing. A bit too wide is better than too narrow. Make sure the hooks are large enough for your hands. Modified “anatomic” curves may feel more comfortable to your palms. Position the bottom, flat portion of the bar horizontal or pointed slightly down toward the rear brake.

Brake Levers: Move them around the curve of the bar to give you the best compromise between holding the hoods and braking when your hands are in the hooks. Most riders do best if the lever tips touch a straightedge extended forward from under the flat, bottom portion of the bar. The levers don’t have to be positioned symmetrically—remember Andy Pruitt’s rule. If your reach is more comfortable with one lever closer to you than the other, put ‘em that way.

Stem Height: Start with the top of the stem about one inch below the top of the saddle. This should give you comfortable access to every hand position. As time goes by, think about lowering the stem as much as another inch (not all at once) to improve your aerodynamics. If your lower back or neck starts complaining, or if you notice you’ve stopped using the drops, go back up. Never put the stem so high that its maximum extension line shows, or it could be snapped off by your weight on the bar.

Top-tube and Stem Lengths: Combined, these two dimensions determine “reach.” Depending on your anatomy and flexibility, your reach could be longer for better aerodynamics, or it may need to be shorter for back or neck comfort. For most riders, when they’re comfortably seated with their elbows slightly bent and their hands on the lever hoods, the front hub will be obscured by the handlebar.

Back: A flat back is the defining mark of a stylish rider. Notice I didn’t say a great rider. Anatomy and flexibility have a lot to do with how flat you can get. Lance Armstrong, for instance, has a rounded back that’s not picture perfect and yet he still manages to go down the road pretty well. The same was true for John Howard, once America’s dominant road racer. I’m in their boat (back-wise, not speed-wise). Once you have the correct reach, work on flattening your back by imagining touching the top tube with your belly button. This helps your hips rotate forward. You don't want to ride this way all of the time, but it'll help you get more aero when you need to.

Saddle Height: This is the biggie. You’ll find various methods for calculating this critical number. Here’s the one I like best. It has become known as the LeMond Method, because Greg brought it to us from his Renault team in the 1980s. (Invite a friend over so you can help each other and both wind up with primo positions.)

Begin by standing on a hard surface with your shoes off and your feet about 6 inches apart. Using a metric tape, measure from the floor to your crotch, pressing with the same force that a saddle does. Multiply this number by 0.883. The result is your saddle height, measured from the middle of the crank axle, along the seat tube, to the top of the saddle.

Add 2 or 3 mm if you have long feet in proportion to your height. If you suffer from chondromalacia (knee pain caused by damage to the underside of the kneecap), a slightly higher saddle may feel better. However, it should never be so high that your hips must rock to help you reach the pedals. If this formula results in a big change from the height you’ve been using, make the adjustment by 2 or 3 mm per week, with several rides between, till you reach the new position. Changing too fast could strain something.

Saddle Tilt: The saddle should be level, which you can check by laying a yardstick along its length and comparing it to something horizontal like a tabletop or windowsill. A slight downward tilt may be more comfortable, but be careful. More than a degree or two could cause you to continually slide forward, putting pressure on your arms and hands.

Fore/Aft Saddle Position: Sit comfortably in the center of the saddle, click into the pedals, and set the crankarms horizontal. Hold a weighted string to the front of your forward kneecap. For most of us, the string should touch the end of the crankarm. This is known as the neutral position. Loosen the seatpost clamp so you can slide the saddle to get it right. Seated climbers, time trialists, and some road racers may like the line to fall a centimeter or two behind the end of the crankarm to increase pedaling leverage. On the other hand, track and criterium racers may like a more forward position that breeds leg speed. Remember, if your reach to the handlebar is wrong, use stem length to correct it, not fore/aft saddle position.

Butt: By sliding fore or aft on the saddle you can bring some muscles into play while resting others. This is a technique favored by Skip Hamilton, my teammate in the 1996 Race Across America. Moving forward emphasizes the quadriceps muscles on the front of the thighs, while moving back highlights the hamstrings and glutes—the powerful butt muscles.

Feet: Some of us walk like pigeons, others like Charlie Chaplin. Your footprints as you leave a swimming pool will tip you off. To make cycling easier on your knees, shoe cleats must put your feet at their natural angle. This is a snap with clipless pedal systems that allow feet to pivot freely (“float”) several degrees before release. Then all you need to do is set the cleats’ fore/aft position, which is easy. Simply position them so the widest part of each foot is centered on the pedal axle. If you experience discomfort such as tingling, numbness or burning (especially on long rides), move the cleats rearward as much as a centimeter.

Crankarm Length: In general, if your inseam is less than 29 inches, use 165-mm crankarms; 29-32 inches, 170 mm; 33-34 inches, 172.5; and more than 34 inches, 175 mm. A crankarm’s length is measured from the center of its fixing bolt to the center of the pedal mounting hole. The length is usually stamped on the back of the arm. If you use longer crankarms than recommended, you’ll gain leverage for pushing big gears but lose some pedaling speed.